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Yes, any entrance you scoped will work.

BTW, just return to Intel and dive underwater in front of El Rubio's compound to unlock the drainage tunnel as an entry point.

No, if you enter the main gate, you need to have guards costume on, don't carry weapon in hand, and inside the special truck. To enter from side doors, you just need keycard. The easiest way is from the drainage tunnel, you need to do the cutting torch prep first.

Yes you can, I do it all the time.

@@Mofiac ok, first of all thanks for your reply and I have a few more questions, is there any special plastic or do you use the usual 3d filaments? is the process the same as this metal fender? do you sand the 3d printed part and do you use any putty and which one before applying gelcoat and later polyester?

Use regular 3d filament. Depending on how fine the detail of the printed part is, you can sand it if it's rough or leave it alone if it's smooth. If you need to fill areas, you can use any automotive putty. Wax the part with mold wax and/or spray it with PVA release agent. Then you can do what I did to make your mold. You'll need to wax the mold with several layers of mold wax before you make a part from it. For the first pull, use PVA release on the mold after you've waxed it. That will 'set' the wax into the mold. Each time you need to make a part from the mold, wax one coat on the mold then make your part. If you notice the parts come out easy, then you can start to skip the wax application until it gets difficult to demold.

If it's a sprayable gelcoat, it hangs well when sprayed. If it's a paint-able one, it applies well with a quality brush or roller.

@@Mofiac what brand do you recommend for spraying?

I use CCP

@@Mofiac I endup using totalboat gelcoat, came out great

Awesome, glad it worked out for you.

It should be crystal clear. Try turning the spray pattern to the cone setting before backwashing. The backwash should redirect the air aggresively back into the paint cup. Repeating this rapidly should allow the acetone to clean the inside of the nozzle until no gelcoat is left.

@@Mofiac The problem is that when I initially add acetone to the cup and then insert the brush into this mixture, the brush gets coated with a high concentration of gelcoat. Then, even if I mix it all thoroughly and spray all of it out the gun, the brush still has the old concentration of gelcoat so that even if I now add crystal clear Acetone to the cup, the brush will now contaminate it with the old concentration. Perhaps the only solution is to clean the brush separately in a separate container after each step or use new brush(es) at each step?

The last rinse in acetone should have cleaned the brush but if it doesn't, just clean the brush on its own. That'll work.

That sounds right. On the last backwash, dump it out and add fresh acetone, then disconnect your air supply and pull the trigger until it runs clear.. That will clean what's left in the nozzle

Take a look at this video. ruclips.net/video/3i0EkkAfFHI/видео.htmlsi=kNWBKhRRU9agVTLO If you gelcoat the bathtub floor then let it cure for a half hour or so, you can drop the pressure on your paintgun and open the paint valve fully it might be enough texture to match what you're after. Probably best to test it on a scrap piece of plastic or painted wood first.

@@Mofiac Yes, that looks like it will work. I'll be trying it out on a test piece in about a week or two. Thanks for getting back to me.

@@Mofiac After several prototyping attempts including the method demonstrated in the molds video you mentioned, I have been unable to get the results I have been looking for. I even tried thickening the gelcoat with 410 microlight filler. What I need is really a true orangepeel texture - very similar to a real orange but with lower lows and higher highs. I'm wanting to avoid a texture that has any kind of roughness to it. A tub/shower floor needs to be very smooth so that it can be kept clean. Any kind of roughness would just make it more difficult to clean. So at this point I think I'm going to have to go with just the subtle orange peel texture that always results when spraying gelcoat - like what you are showing in your "Gecoat like a Pro" video above. The lows will not be as deep as I want but it's better than a mirror-smooth (and very slippery) surface. Thanks again for the help.

Overfilled garbage can. Mostly filled with cured fiberglass cuttings.

Gelcoat isn't like paint. It has to go on thick enough, or it won't cure. For those that don't have a thickness gauge, the orange peel finish let's you know that you're thick enough for a proper cure.

I don't want to alert the guards

@@Mofiac😹😹

Ya, that's standard for the Cayo Perico Heist. By not eliminating the second guard, you've set off the alarms.

They don't always spawn in the same spot.

Yes

I know, they keep nerfing it. Those were the good ol' days....

No, you'd have to sand and polish to get it smooth. You can add high gloss additive to make it much smoother but you'd still have to sand and polish for a bright smooth finish.

Glad you think so!

Not so, I've been using the same sprayer for over 15 years and I use it daily. I have a video showing how to clean the spraygun after each use.

Did you put on guards uniform? If you did, make sure you're unarmed.

Glad it helped u out. Thx 4 watching!!

No problem 👍

You don't need to, I was just doing it to show that it's possible. You can set your escape point to anywhere, then as you get out of the compound, just run (or take a motorcycle) to the far left, jump in water and swim away from the island to end the heist. It's alot faster than trying to get to the yellow dot outside the compound.

@@Mofiac thanks

I walked. Just follow the path I took, it's pretty easy.

i mean like how did u get there at the start where is the location to start the heist i forgot@@Mofiac

reply broo@@Mofiac

You can push him over and take him out with your weapon.

True but it’s also kinda risky when you think about it

It took me a few tries to learn how and where you can do it, but it works every time now. If you don't have the aggressor as a weapon load out, it's the only way to take him out if you're doing it by yourself.

You can still knock him out with the pipe bomb

It's a generic hvlp spraygun. Tip size is 1.8mm. I use it for both paint and gelcoat. If you're just going to use it for gelcoat or if you want best results, order in a 2.2mm needle, nozzle, and aircap.

@@Mofiac Thanks I'm doing a few boats here and I've been spraying cars for 47 years so I think I know what I'm doing I just needed that bit of advice cheers

Good to know. Just remember, gelcoat needs to be at least 18mils thick in order to cure properly. That's like 3 times as thick as car paint. If you're spraying the gelcoat as the final step, make sure to add a wax additive or the surface won't cure properly. If you're going to layup over the gelcoat after spraying, or you want to respray over the gelcoat, do NOT put wax additive in the gelcoat. Good luck.

I buy it already colored, but you can order a neutral or white base and add coloring agent to it

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped you out.

It could be. That guard could be shot, but only if he isn't near the stairs (close to the panther cage) or near the grey car. When you take the primary, a new guard appears behind the grey car and his cone will spot anything close to the car. Another guard spawns in front of the panther cage and faces the stairs leading to the main gate courtyard, where the yellow escape ring is. Hope that helps and thanks for watching. The guards I'm referring to are at 4:05 and 4:12

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for mentioning that. I'm used to spawning in from the drainage tunnel, so I wanted to work my way back there first. I'll try your way next time.

Did you have the bolt cutters with you? I've opened this gate with the cutting torch and had the alarm go off, but it hasn't gone off when I use the bolt cutters.

@Mofiac yes i used the bolt cutters i didn't have cutting torch at first i just found out how to get it, and thanks a lot for the video it was really helpful

It still needs a laminate after it cures, but yes, once the laminate is layed-up and cured, you just peel it off the board.

If acetone still runs out the nozzle after letting go of the trigger, it means there's something stopping the needle from seating against the aircap. Could be one or more of the following: weak needle spring, needle packing nut too tight, debris in the nozzle, needle wrong size for the nozzle. It's usually the packing nut is too tight. Loosen it until the needle slides freely and retighten by hand . It only needs to be snug so it doesn't leak above the trigger.

@@Mofiac I’m not well versed in paint gun terminology. What do you mean when you refer to the packing nut? The gun is brand new, only used a couple of times so the spring should be good.

@@Mofiac never mind, I’m the dumbo. I’d bought the HVLP gun from harbor freight to experiment with, because it’s $15 as opposed to $80 for the other one. In the process of cleaning both guns, I got the needles mixed up so the 1.4 needle was in the 2.5 gun. Swapped them over, problem solved.

I wouldn't use gelcoat as the finish. I would do all the glass work then use a polyester high build primer dry sanded to 320 grit, then a 2 part acrylic urethane automotive paint. Gelcoat as a final layer will craze over time, not to mention you'd have to wetsand it to 2500 grit then polish. That's a lot of work. You'll find that all the corners will end up being see-through after wetsanding, too.

@@Mofiac ok thanks for your quick answer , but maybe i didnt explain well . Was thinking to gelcoat after fiberglass work only , not as a finish . Was asking for the steps to follow for that , or what product to use ? thanks again !!!